I visited Georges Blanc, an unpretentious riverside restaurant in Vonnas, a small town in southern Burgundy, just days after the Michelin Guide had elevated the establishment to three-star status. The place was understandably in a state of excitement. I feel in love with a chicken mousseline I had that night. Blanc had transformed a simple chicken mousse into a truly ethereal concoction. The main ingredient was perfect blond livers from prized Bresse chickens, which were raised a stone's throw from the restaurant.