Raghavan Iyer

Smoking food with black tea leaves can result in a highly smoky and overpowering flavor. This dish goes for a tamer smoke quality, infusing potatoes by boiling them in brewed tea and then tossing them with aromatic spices and fresh ginger.

Smoky Yellow Split Peas: Tamatar Chana Dal

South of Mumbai is a state called Goa that still marches to the Portuguese settlers' tune that influenced its culinary scene, particularly among the masses who converted to Christianity. Pork, vinegar (especially the kind that is extracted from the cashew liquor called feni), and the local cashews appear at numerous meals alongside sweet spices like cinnamon and fiery chiles for balance. For this recipe cider vinegar steps in in lieu of the hard-to-procure cashew vinegar. Serve the pork not with the perfunctory steamed white rice but with buttered, perfectly cooked noodles (wheat, rice, or any other grain).

Raghavan Iyer is a bestselling cookbook author, culinary educator, spokesperson and consultant who specializes in Indian cuisine. In this installment of The Key 3, he shares the techniques behind three of his classic recipes: Smoky Yellow Split Peas, Sweet-scented Pilaf and Indian Slaw.

Indian Slaw: Bund Gobhi Nu Shaak Vegan; gluten-free 

Sweet-scented Pilaf: Masala Pulao Lacto-vegetarian (vegan if you use oil); gluten-free 

We often overlook the bell pepper, which bestows an uncanny, slightly smoky sweetness to a dish.

This is a specialty from Surat in northwestern India. I am always drawn to the scent of a green papaya enhanced by nutty mustard seed popped in hot oil.

Saag means greens; sarson da saag specified mustard greens, and palak da saag is spinach. This flavorful side dish often accompanies hearty whole-wheat griddle breads in Punjab, the wheat-growing capital of India.

Wedges of these spicy kulchas are great as an appetizer with any legume curry. Of course they are best when they are hot off the grill, but you can make a batch ahead of time; wrap them in foil and rewarm them in a preheated 300ºF oven for about 10 minutes. Like many of the Indian flatbreads, this freezes very well for up to 2 months.