Inspired by a recipe from Moghul Microwave: Cooking Indian Food the Modern Way by Julie Sahni, in hot weather this rice begs to be served at room temperature. It is a foil for the rest of the menu, excellent with the cantaloupe, the raita, and the ribs.
Sophie Coe, my guru when it comes to early Meso-American cooking, in her masterpiece, America's First Cuisines, tells us that the tomatillo (also known in Mexico as "miltomate," "tomate verde," or simply "tomate") was likely the most-consumed "tomatl" (Nahuatl for a general class of plump fruit) in pre-Columbian times. Yes, more than the "jitomate" or red, ripe tomato to us English speakers. That explains, I think, why a mouthful of tomatillo salsa transports you straight to Mexico. It is the gustatory essence of the country - a gleaming contour of fresh green spiciness, herbal perfume and zest.
This recipe's inspiration was Chinese chef Susanna Food of Philadelphia. When we interviewed Susanna, we were struck by her lack of rigid culinary rules. She interprets the traditional Chinese palate with modern Western ingredients, boldly mixing balsamic vinegar with soy sauce, or rosemary with dried yellow soybeans. Surprises fill her books. For instance, did you know that fresh corn is used often in the northern regions of China?
Ingredients
Copyright 1996 From "Savoring Spices and Herbs" By Julie Sahni, Published by William Morrow and Company, Inc., New York
An oven-roasted potato pancake with a few new twists. Try substituting rutabaga, turnips, parsnips or white potatoes for a quarter of the yams. And do use organic ingredients if at all possible. Serve this as a main dish with a salad or as a side dish with grilled pork or eggplant, and salad of fresh cabbages.
From Chef Mark Reinfeld's menu for A Holiday Vegan Feast.