This soft, pressed-curd cow's-milk cheese from France's Auvergne region is studded with chunks of garlic and cracked peppercorns. The flavor is tart when the cheese is young and underripe, but turns buttery and brie-like, with nearly overwhelming garlic and pepper notes when ripened. All brands are excellent, but in the United States and France seek out those made by Garmy (Ponte-Astier). Any robust red wine, such as Côtes-du-Rhône (specifically Corbières), makes a good marriage with gaperon. The first flavored cheese, it's in a class by itself.
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