Three great cheeses for melting

According to Steve Jenkins, the best cheeses in the world for melting are the mountain cheeses of Switzerland and France. He says you need look no further than Beaufort, Gruyère de Comte and Fontina.

Beaufort: An unpasteurized, cow's milk cheese from the Savoie region of France. An inedible brushed rind encloses a firm, creamy, beige paste. The mild, fruity, sweet flavor and extraordinary melting capacity make beaufort excellent for fondue. All brands are excellent; look for Beaufort d'Alpage, made from the rich, end-of-summer milk from high Alpine pastures. Pour a big red wine.

Gruyère de Comte: An unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from France's Franche-Comte region. Characterized by a gray-brown, pebbled rind and yellowish-ivory paste, this cheese has a smooth flavor with hints of fruit, toffee, and hazelnuts. Top brands include Maxim's, Jura-Gruyère, and Girod. Finest grade examples have a bell symbol and the word "Comte" stamped in green on the rind. Appropriate wines are big reds such as Côtes-du-Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, red burgundies; and fruity reds such as Beaujolais.

Fontina d'Aosta: An unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from Italy's Piedmont. The firm but supple beige interior is covered by an inedible reddish-brown brushed rind. One of the world's greatest cheeses according to Steve, Fontina has an earthy, herby flavor and a delicate, fruity aroma. All brands are excellent but look on the rind for a stenciled purple circle with a mountain in the center and the word "Fontina." Good wines for pairing are Piedmont's big reds such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Spanna, Gattinara.