Listen to this feature (How to listen)

When in Paris, Steve Jenkins, author of Steve Jenkins' Cheese Primer, heads directly to the 7th arrondissement and one of these shops where he finds some of the best fromage in the City of Light:

Androuet
83, rue Saint-Dominique
Paris 7
Metro: La Tour-Maubourg
8:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Closed Sunday, and Monday morning

Although now owned by big money, the three Androuet shops are still very, very good. At this Left Bank location, service is very knowledgeable, and you'll find some special cheeses here that you won't find elsewhere. The other shops are located in the 8th and 14th arrondissements.

Barthelemy
51, rue de Grenelle
Paris 7
Metro: Rue du Bac
7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.
Closed Sunday and Monday

Everyone from neighborhood residents to celebrities shops at this Paris landmark. Cheeses to buy here include Camembert, Brie, Fontainebleau, and, from October to March, the best Vacherin anywhere.

Marie-Anne Cantin 12, rue du Champ-de-Mars
Paris 7
Metro: Ecole Militaire
8:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and 4:00 to 7:30 p.m.
Closed Monday

This pretty little boutique, located very near the famed rue Cler outdoor market, features perfectly aged selections, many of which appear on the tables of Paris' finest restaurants. The owners are passionate about cheese, and give great care to the aging rooms located below their shop. In the cow's milk cellar the floor is covered with pebbles, which are watered down regularly to maintain proper humidity, and all cheese is aged on straw.