Shrimp Scampi with Pernod and Fennel Fronds

I've gotten complacent when it comes to shrimp cookery. Out of the dozens of methods possible for cooking the crustacean, I've reduced it to two, which fall along a seasonal divide.

In winter, I roast them until caramelized and golden; in summer, I sauté them with garlic, scampi style.

Not that I make the same two dishes over and over. I keep the techniques consistent, and change up the flavorings to match my mood and the contents of my fridge.

For example, this licorice-scented scampi is the love child of a bag of shrimp and a shock of wandering, feathery fennel fronds that met in the fridge while waiting for me to figure out what to make for dinner. When I opened the fridge and noticed their intimate proximity, the dish seemed destined to be.

So I married them in the pan, anointing the union with butter for creaminess, crushed red pepper for heat, and Pernod to play up the anise flavor of the fennel. I have to say, it's one of the happiest pairings to ever end up on my dinner plate.

You'll notice I don't use the fennel bulbs here. I could have, slicing them thinly and caramelizing them in butter before adding the shrimp. But in the end I decided to keep things simple and pure between fronds and seafood. After all, three's a crowd, even in a sauté pan.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 

• 2 garlic cloves, minced 

• 1/3 cup dry white wine 

• 2 tablespoons Pernod 

• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 

• Pinch crushed red pepper flakes 

• 2 pounds large shrimp, shelled 

• 2 tablespoons fresh, finely minced fennel fronds (save the bulbs for snacking) 

• Freshly squeezed juice of 1/2 lemon 

Instructions

1. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine and Pernod, salt, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a simmer. Let the mixture reduce by half, about 2 minutes.

2. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring, until they just turn pink, 2 to 4 minutes depending on their size. Stir in the fennel fronds and lemon juice. Serve with crusty bread.

What Else?

Scampi is such an adaptable recipe because the combination of butter, garlic, and wine makes anything taste good. So, to that end, here are a few of my favorite variations:

• Skip the Pernod and use Cognac or more white wine. 

• Any fresh, floppy, soft herb can step into the fennel fronds' shoes. Parsley is classic, mint is refreshing, sage is musky, basil is summery, cilantro is citrusy, anise hyssop is exotic, chervil is licorice-ish, and a combination might just blow your mind. 

• Chunks of fish or scallops or even chicken can replace the shrimp if you're not feeling shrimpy. 

• A pinch of Turkish or Aleppo red pepper is a nice substitute for the more pedestrian red pepper flakes, adding a fruity, smoky note. 

• Lime juice is nice sometimes instead of the lemon. To bump up the citrus flavor of either lemon or lime, you can also grate in some fresh zest, which zips things up nicely, especially given the butter quotient here. 

• If you like it aromatic, try adding a pinch of garam masala or ground cumin to the butter. 

• Sometimes I throw some cubed tomatoes into the pan along with the shrimp. If you do this, you'll need more salt and pepper to season everything properly.