Stuffed Cabbage Rolls in Tomato Sauce

This is the kind of food that I enjoy making with family and friends who love to cook. I set out small stations for filling and rolling the cabbage rolls and then cook them together in a large pot. And when I need to do this by myself, it is still one of the most relaxing ways to pull my attention away from the everyday hustle and bustle of life.

If you end up with extra filling for whatever reason (maybe you got tired of making the rolls; I’ve been there and done that), then make the cigar-shaped logs and bread them using the same technique and breading mix used for the Golden Za’atar Onion Rings and present them as vegetarian croquettes to your dinner guests.

MAKES 14 TO 16 ROLLS

Veg-Table: Recipes, Techniques + Plant Science for Big Flavored, Vegetable-Focused Meals Nik Sharma

Set up two saucepans, large and medium. To the large saucepan, add 1¼ lb [570 g] russet potatoes, cut into 2 in [5 cm] pieces, and add enough water to completely cover the potatoes. Stir in fine sea salt (see the Cook’s Notes). Cover with a lid and bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes turn tender and a knife or skewer passes through the center with minimal resistance, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove the potatoes with a slotted spoon and transfer to a large mixing bowl to cool. Once cool enough to handle, peel and discard the skin. Mash the potatoes with a large fork or masher.

To the medium saucepan, add ½ cup [100 g] beluga lentils, picked over and rinsed; 2 cups [480 ml] water; and 1 tsp fine sea salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the lentils are completely tender but aren’t falling apart, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain the lentils through a fine mesh sieve set over the sink and add to the mashed potatoes.

Fold in 1 green chilli such as jalapeño or serrano, minced, deseeded for a milder heat; 2 Tbsp chopped cilantro; 2 tsp garam masala, homemade (page 341) or store-bought; 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder (or ¾ tsp smoked sweet paprika + ¼ tsp ground cayenne); and ½ tsp ground black pepper. Taste and season with fine sea salt.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or wax paper to prevent sticking. Divide the mixture into 14 to 16 equal parts, about 3 Tbsp each, and shape each into a 4 in [10 cm] cigar-shaped log. Arrange them on the prepared pan.

Separate 14 to 16 large leaves from 1 cabbage head, preferably Savoy (you might need 2 Savoy cabbages). Work with one leaf at a time. Lay one leaf on a cutting board, with the curved side facing upward. Using a small paring knife, make a small, narrow V-shaped cut at the bottom of the leaf to remove the tough white stalk. This helps the leaves fold and hold their shape after rolling. Repeat with the rest of the leaves.

Set up a large saucepan filled with enough salted water to cover several leaves at a time and bring to a boil over high heat. Submerge four cabbage leaves at a time and blanch for 1 minute, until tender and translucent. Transfer the leaves with a slotted spoon to a cutting board. Repeat with the remaining leaves. Once the leaves are warm but cool enough to handle, lay a leaf flat on the cutting board, with the wide end of the notch toward you. Place one log of the filling near the tip of the notch. Fold the sides of the leaf inward and then, starting with the bottom side of the leaf, start to roll the leaf upward to encase the filling, tightly tucking the leaf underneath as you move. Transfer to the baking sheet seam side down and prepare the remaining cabbage leaf rolls.

Nik Sharma

In a deep, large saucepan, warm 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add 1 large yellow or white onion, diced, and sauté until translucent, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 2 garlic cloves, grated; 1 Tbsp peeled and grated ginger; 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder (or ¾ tsp ground smoked sweet paprika + ¼ tsp ground cayenne); and ½ tsp ground turmeric. Sauté until fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds. Scrape the bottom of the pot and stir in one 28 oz [794 g] can diced tomatoes, preferably San Marzano. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Taste and season with fine sea salt and a pinch of sugar, if desired.

Gently and very carefully nestle the stuffed cabbage rolls about halfway in the sauce. Because saucepans are round, use the shape of the pan to guide you. It’s OK if it’s a tight fit. Cover the saucepan with a lid and simmer until the cabbage is very tender and soft, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Prepare the tadka. In a small saucepan, warm 1 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add 1 tsp whole cumin seeds and 1 tsp whole nigella seeds. Fry until fragrant and lightly brown, 30 to 45 seconds. Remove from the heat and quickly drop in ½ tsp red pepper flakes such Aleppo, Maras, or Urfa. Swirl the saucepan until the oil turns slightly red, 15 to 20 seconds. Quickly pour the hot oil over the cabbage rolls. Serve hot or warm. Store leftovers in an airtight container for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

THE COOK’S NOTES

Everyone’s ratios of salt to water vary when boiling food. I use 1 tsp fine sea salt for every 4½ cups [1 L] water.

The size of the leaves will start to get smaller as you work down to the core. Consequently, the number of rolls you end up with will vary a little. This recipe gives you enough wiggle room.

The 1 in [2.5 cm] V-shape cut or notch made at the bottom of the cabbage leaf is important. I’ve provided a measure­ment to give you a sense of how small it needs to be. That tough white stalk is like a very tough rubber band and if left attached, it will keep unraveling the roll.

Veg-Table: Recipes, Techniques + Plant Science for Big Flavored, Vegetable-Focused Meals by Nik Sharma. © 2023. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs © Nik Sharma.

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