Grilled Rice Paper (Bánh Tráng Nướng)

This dish has been popularized by young people all over Vietnam. It hasn’t quite hit the mainstream in America yet, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see it explode on a social media platform anytime now.

This street snack is often referred to as Vietnamese pizza, but if anything, I think of it more like a quesadilla. You can top the rice paper with any kind of salty processed meat and cheese you want . . .  hot dogs and Laughing Cow (yes, the foil-wrapped triangles!) are common, followed by squiggles of mayo and sriracha. And I wouldn’t be against topping the whole thing with a layer of Flamin’ Hot Cheeto dust.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 4 rice paper wrappers

• 2 large eggs, beaten, or 4 whole quail eggs

  Dǎc Biêt: An Extra-Special Vietnamese Cookbook Nini Nguyen

• 2 green onions, sliced

• 1 cup meat of choice, such as sliced hot dogs or sausage, dried shrimp powder, pork floss, or canned fish

• 1 cup shredded cheese of your choice, or 4 wedges of Laughing Cow (optional)

• 4 tablespoons Vietnamese Aioli / Bơ (see below) or kewpie mayo

• Lemongrass Chili Oil or sriracha to taste (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat a dry skillet over medium-high heat and add a sheet of rice paper.

2. When the paper starts to move in waves, add about 1/2 of a beaten egg or 1 quail egg, along with about 2 tablespoons of the green onions. Use a spatula to gently spread them in an even layer over the rice paper.

3. After about 30 seconds, add your meat of choice, followed by the cheese. Allow the cheese to melt.

4. Once the cheese is melted and the rice paper is crispy on all sides, remove to a plate, drizzle with aioli and hot sauce, and serve open- faced or fold in half as a handheld snack.

5. Repeat with remaining sheets of rice paper. 

Vietnamese Aioli / Bơ 

We call this “bơ” (butter) for good reason. This aioli (fancy name for mayo with garlic) is rich and extremely savory. In Vietnam, butter was a luxury as dairy was not readily available, so this aioli was created to mimic the deliciousness of butter. Traditionally, it is only used when bread is involved, but I encourage everyone to use it anywhere you would use a homemade mayo.

American mayo doesn’t really appeal to the Vietnamese palate because it has vinegar in it. The acidity disrupts the balance we’re trying to achieve in dishes like bánh mì, which already come with pickles. That’s why any decent bánh mì begins with bơ instead of mayo, because bo is pure fatty and savory richness— no acid involved. 

Makes 1 cup

• 1 large egg

• 1 large clove garlic

• 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce

• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 cup neutral oil 

Make It Đặc Biệt »  Give this aioli an extra level of savoriness by using, instead of a neutral oil, the oil from the scallion oil recipe or the oil you may have used to fry shallots. 

IF USING AN IMMERSION BLENDER

1. In a tall jar or large heavy-duty cup, add all ingredients along with 2 tablespoons of water and let them sit for 3 minutes.

2. Place the tip of the immersion blender at the base of the cup and blend for 30 seconds, or until all of the oil gets incorporated and the aioli is emulsified and creamy. It is important to make sure NOT to bring the immersion blender up from the base of the cup until it gets thick and creamy. Moving it up too fast will break the mayo and it will not get thick. 

IF USING A FOOD PROCESSOR

1. In the bowl of the food processor, add the egg, garlic, fish sauce, salt, and 2 tablespoons of water.

2. Pulse to combine, then slowly pour in the oil in a steady stream, blending as you go, until all of the oil gets incorporated and the aioli is emulsified and creamy. 

FOR BOTH METHODS

Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days.

Credit line: From Dac Biet © 2024 by Nini Nguyen. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.

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