Numbing Smashed Potatoes, or Tingly Taters

These smashed potatoes are inspired by my favorite stir-fried mala potatoes I get from the Sichuan restaurant near my house. Their version is crinkle-cut, but the seasoning here is the same and the shape is just as playful. Mala refers to a blend of primarily Sichuan peppercorns and spicy chilis, and lends its name to that buzzing, almost tingly sensation you get from eating Sichuan food. This spice mix also includes cumin seeds and white pepper to round out the heat with a little earthiness, turning these smashed potatoes into tingly taters.

Serves 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS

Chinese Enough: Homestyle Recipes for Noodles, Dumplings, Stir-Fries, and More Kristina Cho

• 1½ pounds (681 g) small yellow potatoes

• ¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 teaspoons ground Sichuan peppercorns

• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds

• 2 teaspoons crushed red chili flakes

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• ½ teaspoon ground white pepper

• Sizzle Sauce (see below), for serving                                   

DIRECTIONS

BOIL THE POTATOES: Fill a large pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and cook until tender (a paring knife should be able to easily pierce them), 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the potatoes and allow to cool for a few minutes.

WARM UP: Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C). Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over a large rimmed baking sheet.

MIX THE SPICE BLEND: In a large bowl or the pot the potatoes were cooked in, mix the potatoes with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the Sichuan peppercorns, cumin, chili flakes, salt, and white pepper. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Use the bottom of a heavy glass or measuring cup to smash each of the potatoes to a little less than 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick. Drizzle any oil left in the bowl over the potatoes.

ROAST AND SERVE: Roast the potatoes until crispy and golden brown, 25 to 28 minutes. Allow the potatoes to cool for a few minutes before serving with a bowl of sizzle sauce alongside for dipping.

Sizzle Sauce

It is very common in Chinese cooking to add some drama to your meal by pouring hot oil over a mixture of spices and aromatics, which quickly cooks them and blooms their flavors, resulting in a very satisfying sizzle. You do this as part of making Chili Crunch and XO Sauce, and often as a final touch (done tableside) when serving steamed fish. This sizzle sauce is different in that all the sizzling is done in the pan. It lacks the awe of a tableside show but delivers a more impactful flavor and keeps well in the fridge. The hot oil will coax out more depth and sweetness from the green onions especially. The extra step of blending the infused oil with the aromatics releases even more flavor and emulsifies the sauce into something creamy and irresistible. Use this for Sizzle Sauce Noodles, spread it over toasted bread, marinate some chicken in it to grill later, or simply eat it with steamed rice and a fried egg.

Makes about 1½ cups (360 ml)

• 3 cups (170 g) finely chopped green onions (about 2 bunches)

• 1¼ cups (300 ml) grapeseed oil

• 1 (2-inch/5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

• 2 garlic cloves, minced

• ½ teaspoon kosher salt 

SIZZLE THE AROMATICS: In a medium skillet, combine the green onions, grapeseed oil, ginger, and garlic. Warm over medium heat until the aromatics begin to sizzle, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the green onion greens start to crisp and lightly brown, about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes.

BLEND AND STORE: Carefully transfer the oil and aromatics to a blender. Add the salt and blend for a few moments until mostly smooth. Transfer the sizzle sauce to a jar and allow to fully cool. Cover and store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

Excerpted from Chinese Enough by Kristina Cho (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2024. Photographs by Kristina Cho.

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