Substituting sea palm for the anchovies gives the salad that familiar briny flavor. A bowl of hot pasta with red sauce is the ideal accompaniment.
Sophie Coe, my guru when it comes to early Meso-American cooking, in her masterpiece, America's First Cuisines, tells us that the tomatillo (also known in Mexico as "miltomate," "tomate verde," or simply "tomate") was likely the most-consumed "tomatl" (Nahuatl for a general class of plump fruit) in pre-Columbian times. Yes, more than the "jitomate" or red, ripe tomato to us English speakers. That explains, I think, why a mouthful of tomatillo salsa transports you straight to Mexico. It is the gustatory essence of the country - a gleaming contour of fresh green spiciness, herbal perfume and zest.
Tasting of hazelnuts with a hint of tang, creme fraiche is France's favorite form of cream for cooking. With more body and complex flavors than fresh sweet cream, creme fraiche is a thick, rich, custard of a cream. It thickens without curdling, a little goes a long way in fast pan sauces, and blended with fresh herbs and a dash of fresh lemon, creme fraiche is splendid over seafoods and poultry. Dollop it over fresh fruit, or whip and lightly sweeten to frost or fill cakes. This is a home version that comes close to the real thing.
Ingredients
Lynne Rossetto Kasper watched a cook on a horse farm in Umbria make a sauce right on her cutting board with wild chives she picked just outside the back door. Mincing everything may not follow traditional pesto technique which calls for crushing in a mortar, but I like the idea of this fast sauce made on a cutting board. Adjust the herbs with what you find at the market. Try this over rice and with couscous.
Japanese cooks use it in soups; as a seasoning for grilled vegetables, meat, and seafood; as a dip; or in salad dressing.
1. Make Gravy Broth (can do a day ahead): After turkey goes into the oven, place the neck, giblets and wing tips in a 4 to 6-quart saucepan. Add 1 carrot, 1 stalk celery, 1 large onion, and 2 cloves garlic, all chopped. Cover by 2 inches with 1/2 bottle white wine (inexpensive sauvignon blanc, fumé blanc, or pinot grigio), 2 1/2 cups (20 ounces) canned chicken broth, and water as needed. Simmer, partially covered, 2 to 3 hours. Broth will reduce. Keep solids covered with a little liquid. When ready to start gravy, pour broth through a strainer into a bowl. Discard solids remaining in the strainer.
Prep time: 5 minutes
Ingredients
Makes 1/2 cup